Tour du Mont Blanc - A Travelers Guide
- allannahtravels
- Oct 29, 2017
- 17 min read
Updated: Dec 12, 2019
The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is Europe’s most popular long distance hiking trail – and for good reason. The route circles the spectacular Mont Blanc massif, covering a distance of 170km and including 10,000m of elevation change. Passing through three countries, it provides a spectacular tour of snow-capped peaks, glacial valleys, crystal-clear mountain lakes, and local alpine villages.
Mont Blanc massif is a 25km-long mountain range that forms the border between France, Italy and Switzerland. It contains eleven major independent summits, each over 4000m in height, and is covered by over 40 glaciers. The highest peak (Mont Blanc – after which the range in named) is the highest point in Western Europe towering at an impressive 4,810m – the focal point of the Tour du Mont Blanc trail.
The TMB is the third long distance hike I completed in Europe. This time I didn’t walk solo, but with a good friend Dave, who had no idea of the scale of this hike until he arrived at Geneva Airport the day before we started - #thedavidhopperexperience.
The long distance trail is usually completed in between eight and twelve days, but given our short time frame and the unavailability of refuges, we only had seven days. Circumnavigating the route in this time was challenging and exhausting, but even more so it was incredibly rewarding, and a journey we will never forget.
Regardless of how you choose to take on the TMB, this long distance hike is the perfect way to experience the beauty and diversity of the European Alps. This blog provides details of our experience, including our itinerary and what we packed. It also contains information for those hoping to complete the hike at a more leisurely pace.
Hiking the Tour Du Mont Blanc
The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) route is shown below and can be seen in more detail here.
Stage One – Les Houches to Les Contamines
Country: France
Distance: 22km
Ascent: 700m
Descent: 560m
Time: 7 hours
The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) traditionally starts in the small Alpine town of Les Houches (993m), approximately 8km from Chamonix, in the heart of the French Alps. From the main road, a wooden staircase marks the start of the route, which is followed by a 700m ascent to Col de Voza (1693m). The trail follows primarily a gravel vehicle track and is well signposted to the top.
Col de Voza has cafes and basic facilities, and is one of the stops on the Tramway du Mont Blanc cog railway that runs from La Fayet to Nid d’Aigle (2,380m). Many hikers skip this first ascent by taking the railway from Les Houches.
From here, the trail continues down into Les Contamines (1134m), passing through picturesque alpine villages, blossoming meadows and natural forests, with excellent views of Mount Blanc and across the foothills of the Alps. The trail can be very steep in some sections, and varies between narrow dirt trails, vehicle tracks and paved roads.
GEO FACT
You have probably heard Mount Blanc Range referred to as a ‘massif’ – this describes a section of the crust that has been thrust above the Earth’s surface. During this movement, a massif tends to retain its internal structure while being displaced as a whole, and creates huge, mountainous features. Mont Blanc massif hosts the highest and most famous peaks of the Alps.
In Bionassay Valley, a 3km stroll along a riverside path makes a very pleasing approach into Les Contamines. Here you will find outdoor shops and food stores to stock up on supplies. Our first refuge, Gite le Pontet, was located about 1km beyond Les Contamines on the edge of the river.
Overall, stage one is somewhat a prelude of what is to come, and a great way to ease into the Tour du Mont Blanc.
Accommodation
Gite Le Pontet was fantastic. Simple dorm rooms and basic facilities provided for in-house guests and campers. Dinner here was my favourite (though not very traditional) – staff cooked a seafood paella in a giant pan outside before serving it in a cosy dining room. This refuge was the most affordable for half board and an overall great experience.
Stage Two – Les Contamines to Refuge des Mottets
Country: France
Distance: 25km
Ascent: 1530m
Descent: 860m
Time: 10 hours
The route out of Les Contamines follows a gravel road through forestry, before a steep ascent to the church of Notre Dame de la Gorge. The steep trail was originally constructed by Romans and is roughly paved with large slabs of rock and gravel. It passes a narrow gorge where bright blue waters fall through smooth rock formations.
After a few kilometres, the trail joins an access road and the TMB takes you through a beautiful, green valley before reaching Refuge de la Balme (1706m). The scenery from here is spectacular, and you find yourself surrounded by sharp mountain peaks.
GEO FACT
The rocks of the continental plate are often very old and recycled. The Mont Blanc massif, which is made essentially from granite, is no exception. Granite is a coarse-grained, intrusive rock that forms from the slow crystallisation of magma below the Earth’s surface.
The ascent continues to Col du Bonhomme (2329m) where the mountainous views are panoramic, and you really feel like you are in the middle of nowhere. This is the perfect place to stop for lunch and take in the surroundings.
GEO FACT
Metamorphic rocks associated with the massif include schist and gniess, which form when the basement rock is exposed to extreme heat and pressure. These conditions cause minerals grow and align, forming characteristic banding and a sheen (you may see some rocks glistening in the sun!).
GEO FACT
What causes the displacement of these rocks above the crust? It is the result of plate tectonics, and the clash of the African and European continents. Over 300 million years ago, as the European plate moved beneath the African plate by the process of subduction, terrestrial crust thickened and thrust the massif of Mont Blanc above the Earth's surface.
At Col de la Croix (2479m), you reach a fork in the trail. Here you have the option to continue south to Les Chapieux, or take the high route to Col des Fours (2665m) and la Ville des Glaciers. The high route is marked as a difficult route for ‘expert hikers only’, based on the likelihood of snow cover and the extremely steep descent, which would be tricky during poor weather conditions. At the time of our hike, the sun was out and snow cover was minimal, so we had no issues following the route. I recommend checking the weather forecast and snow conditions before taking on the route yourself.
Following the steep descent, the trail becomes less severe and you wind down through a glacial valley to la Ville des Glaciers (1800m). Another 2km along the access road and you arrive at Refuge des Mottets (1870m).
Accommodation
This was one of our most memorable stays, partly because the sleeping arrangements were hilariously cosy, but also for the lively, welcoming atmosphere. At dinner we were seated with a great group of hikers from Germany, England and America. The food was delicious and entertainment was provided in the form of an old music box. A little pricier than other refuges, but worth it for the laughs and that stunning view down the valley.
Stage Three – Refuge des Mottets to Refuge Randonneur de Mont Blanc
Country: France/Italy
Distance: 23km
Ascent: 1120m
Descent: 1020m
Time: 8 hours
Mornings at Refuge des Mottets start early with breakfast served at 6:30am. Once the coffee has kicked in, stage three begins with a climb to Col de la Seige (2516m) - the border between France and Italy. Initially, the trail is quite steep and gravelly, but becomes more gradual closer to the pass. The views are absolutely breath-taking in both directions, and another chain of snowy peaks are revealed.
GEO FACT
Following the period of tectonic activity, rocks of the Mont Blanc massif were heavily eroded, and eventually ground down and inundated by the sea. This allowed sedimentary rocks to form. Once again, the Earth's crust was uplifted as a result of plate collision, and this time the Alps began to form. Alps comprising granite, schist, gneiss and limestone.
The next section of the trail was one of my most memorable. The trail drops down into a glacial valley known as the Val Veni. The colours are vibrant, and the peaks surrounding you are almost intimidating. Be sure to stop in at the Environmental Conservation Hut and read about the regional geology along the way!
GEO FACT
The most dominant geological process to shape the mountains is glaciation. During ice age periods, glaciers would have advanced throughout the region, much further than seen today, carving out the mountains as they moved. Evidence of this is shown by large V-shaped valleys such as the Val Veni, as well as moraine deposits, cirques, and traces of ancient frozen terrain, left behind when the large ice masses retreated.
Refuge Elizabetta (2195m) is in a very dramatic location with massive glaciers across the mountain behind it, and views of the Val Veni in front. We stopped here for lunch and a closer look at the glaciers. Some hikers ended their day here after the long walk the day before.
The next part of the TMB is wonderfully varied with views across the Val Veni, to immense rock walls and ice falls on the southern face of Mount Blanc. The valley is filled with pools of water that reflect incredible shades of green and blue in the sunlight. Pools we were tempted to swim in as this part of the valley was excruciatingly hot – I would guess somewhere in the high 30’s. Good thing there were so many flowing streams to keep us hydrated.
Eventually you come to a fork in the trail at 1970m, where you can chose to take the high route or low route toward Courmayeur. The undulating nature of the route is a demanding end to the day, however, the higher you climb, the greater appreciation you will have of the vast scale of these mountains. The highest point (2370m) provides you with the closest view of Mont Blanc on the TMB.
The rest of the day involves a gradual descent through Courmayeur Ski Field to Refuge Maison Vielle (1956m) and eventually the wonderfully located Refuge Randonneur de Mont Blanc (1897m).
Accommodation
Refuge Randonneur looks like a small village; a cluster of stone buildings at the top of a ski slope. It includes a restaurant/bar with a large balcony overlooking the region, and separate bunk rooms sleeping between 4 and 12 people. For dinner we were expecting our first taste of Italian cuisine, but instead were served pork and fries - surprising, but not terrible. We enjoyed sunset from the balcony with our new German and American friends.
Stage Four – Refuge Randonneur de Mont Blanc to Refuge Elena
Country: Italy
Distance: 29km
Ascent: 1120m
Descent: 960m
Time: 7.5 hours
Stage four begins with a very steep descent into Courmayeur Township (1226m). The loose, gravelly trail weaves through dense forestry, and is almost entirely made up of tight switchbacks. After about an hour, you find yourself on level ground in a picturesque, alpine town, complete with narrow roads and wooden A-frame houses. Across the river, you reach the town centre where you can check out the local sights and replenish your supplies (with pizza and croissants).
The TMB leaves Courmayeur along the Strada Del Villair, passing many pretty chalets along the way. The trail joins a gravel road and you begin a steady climb to Refuge Giorgio Bertone (1991m). The ascent is almost entirely in trees which was a life-saver in the heat of the day. As you gain elevation you’re provided wonderful views back down the Aosta Valley, and at the top – Mont Blanc and the Aiguille Noire.
GEO FACT
One glacial feature you will see along the TMB is the pointed peak in the picture above. A glacier has advanced around the rock without eroding it completely – leaving a symmetrical cone-shaped peak in the centre of the valley.
The route to Refuge Alpino Walter Bonatti (2056m) is delightful. With very little change in elevation, you stroll through flower-filled meadows and abandoned stone huts, while enjoying the glaciers and peaks that surround you. From Bonatti, the trail continues in the same way for another couple of hours before dropping to into the valley at Fondovalle (1769m).
The final 30 minutes to Refuge Elena (2062m) involves a short climb among boulders and streams, toward a branch of the largest glacier on the TMB.
GEO FACT
Also responsible for shaping the mountain range are faults – fractures generated by tectonic activity. These broke up the region into many sectors, raising and lowering them, and tilting them to create the dramatically sloped features we see today.
Accommodation
Refuge Elena is also positioned perfectly on a glacial moraine, directly below Mer de Glace. This refuge was the most remote, which came with the most spectacular views. It also had the best food so far – five courses all served to us as if we were in a five-star restaurant. The facilities are basic given its location, and includes one 50 bed bunk room – be sure to bring ear plugs! It was the most expensive of all the refuges but it was definitely worth the money.
Stage Five – Refuge Elena to Champex
Country: Italy/Switzerland
Distance: 29km
Ascent: 870m
Descent: 1480m
Time: 8 hours
Another day, another glorious ascent. This time to Grand Col Ferret (2537m) – the border between Italy and Switzerland. The trail is rocky and relatively steep, but levels out closer to the pass. At the top we ventured off-route a short distance for a broader view of the valley and Elena below.
After a gradual decent, you are welcomed to la Peule (2071m) by the sound of cowbells. From here, the trail winds through pastureland and on a mixture of dirt trails, gravel tracks and paved roads to reach the small Swiss town of La Fouly (1600m). On the opposite hillside, we noticed hundreds of trail runners racing to the top! In La Fouly, we learned that there was an event on that day and it wouldn’t be the last we saw of them.
The TMB continues along a narrow riverside trail for approximately 6km to the town Praz de Form (1197m). The route isn’t as well signposted in this section and we took a wrong turn, adding another kilometre and a 200m climb to our journey – so be sure to check your maps!
As you continue north, the TMB takes you through beautiful, quaint Swiss villages and around local farmland. From Issert (1055m), the route winds up through forest on a soft, dirt trail, passing rock climbers and leisurely day walkers. After an hour or so, you reach the Champex welcome sign, and follow the road in to Champex Township (1486m).
GEO FACT Lac de Champex at 1500m is a perfect example of a glacier lake. These lakes form when a glacier retreats and melts, filling in holes and space that it has eroded in the landscape. The scouring action of the glaciers pulverizes minerals in the rock over which it passes. These minerals become suspended in the water column of the lake, and support a large population of algae - making the lake appear bright green!
This place is everything you see in a post card. The lake is crystal clear and bright blue, entertaining swimmers, kayakers and fishermen. I wish we had had more time to explore this place as it was truly unique and isolated in the mountain ranges. We stopped at the supermarket to stock up on supplies, and then followed the road signs for another 2km to Auberge Gite Bon Abri (1444m).
Accommodation
This refuge was situated in a lush valley, away from main roads of Champex. Despite being in Switzerland, this was our cheapest night of accommodation! Instead of staying in a dorm room, we chose to sleep in a large pagoda outside of the refuge – usually used during peak season when more beds are required. It was lovely in the hot weather and we could still use the indoor facilities as we pleased. The food was basic but plentiful. And the refuge was very quiet, but by this point in the hike we welcomed the peacefulness and an enjoyed an early nights rest.
Stage Six – Champex to Le Chalet de Charamillion
Country: Switzerland/France
Distance: 25km
Ascent: 1570m
Descent: 1160m
Time: 7 hours
Today there are two route options:
The high route via Fenettre D’Arpette (2665m), which involves a tough climb and steep descent over a glacier. It is said to be the toughest part of the TMB but with the most rewarding views.
The low route via Alp Bovine (2049m) includes a less dramatic climb through meadows, forests and high alpine pastures before dropping down to Trient township.
Although we had our sights set on the high route, the weather was not in our favour. The morning forecast predicted low visibility and heavy rain by lunchtime, so we set off on the lower option.
From Gite Bon Abri, the TMB continues along a gravel road to Les Fontaines (1381m), passing farmland and villages, before starting the ascent to Alp Bovine (2049m). The trail is not as well marked through this section so be sure to look out for stray-painted rocks, and check your maps from time to time. The ascent takes you through a densely forested hillside, along a well established, winding, dirt trail.
You hear the cowbells of Alp Bovine before you see the building. Bovine is a working dairy farm positioned high over the Rhône Valley. Inside the farmhouse is incredible – complete with old fire stove and wooden interior, you feel like you have gone back in time. Take some time here to enjoy the views across the Bernese Alps, while treating yourself to a delicious cake with your left over Francs.
GEO FACT
Recent and current day processes shaping the landscape include mass movements such as landslides, debris flows and rock falls; triggered by factors such as climatic conditions, structural discontinues in rocks, tectonics or human activities. There are many textbook examples throughout the mountain range, which have become an important part of international scientific literature.
The next section involves a very pleasant, mostly downhill woodland walk to Col de La Forclaz (1526m), and a similar but slightly steeper descent to Trient (1297m). We arrived in Trient by accident, as our plan was to take a shorter route to La Peuty (1319m). But after missing a signpost or two, we cut through some grass fields and arrived at a nice camping area for lunch – just in time for the rain to set in.
The day ends with one last climb to Col de Balme (2199m) – the border between Switzerland and France. Initially, the trail steeply ascends with many switchbacks; the forested scenery here eerily reminded us of hiking in New Zealand. From 1800m, the route is more gradual, as you come out of the trees and follow a gravelly track to the pass.
Col de Balme is a picturesque refuge, high in the mountains with superb views of the Chamonix Valley (during occasional breaks in the clouds). We stopped for a few beers with new friends to celebrate our accomplishments.
Another twenty minutes’ walk down through Le Tour Ski Field and you arrive at Le Chalet de Charamillion (1854m).
Accommodation
Le Chalet de Charamillion is a small refuge, and not as popular as previous refuges due to its close proximity to the Chamonix Valley. It comprises a few simple bunk rooms, a restaurant, and basic facilities. There was only one woman working there at the time and she was very friendly and accommodating. We all sat at one big table for dinner, reminisced and enjoyed a few beverages. This was one of my most memorable nights, probably because we felt like we had reached the end. The next morning, sunrise across the Chamonix Valley was incredible.
Stage Seven – Le Chalet de Charamillion to Les Houches
Country: France
Distance: 20km
Ascent: 0km
Descent: 450m
Time: 6 hours
The last day of the TMB! Unfortunately, we were still at least 12 hours from Les Houches. Limited hut availability and other commitments following the trip meant that we had planned to take a bus from Les Tour to Les Houches, skipping the last two sections.
However, on this particular morning we were feeling more energised than ever and decided to walk to Les Houches through the valley.
The descent to Le Tour (1463m) is straightforward and takes about an hour. From here, we followed a mixture of highways, gravel roads and misty river trails through many Alpine villages to Chamonix (1027m). Though it was not the traditional route, it was still very enjoyable, and the towering peaks and interbedded glaciers lining the valley looked stunning in the low cloud.
GEO FACT
Influenced by the effects of climate change, the glaciers of the Mont Blanc area are all currently in a state of decline. The Mer de Glace retreats between 4 to 5 metres each year, and is expected to retreat a further 1.2 kilometres by 2040 if average temperatures continue to rise as they are. Many barely visible now, it is likely these glaciers will not be significant features of the TMB in the future.
In Chamonix, we took some time to walk through the beautiful and bustling town square. We had burgers and beer at the tiny but incredible Loco Poco for lunch, before saying goodbye to friends, and continuing onward to Les Houches.
From here, the views of Mer de Glace from the north were sensational as we strolled the final 7km along the river edge. We celebrated at the Les Houches road sign, and again as we saw the steeple of the Elise des Houches church. Finally we reached our final refuge – Gite Michel Fagot (1010m).
Accommodation
We stayed at Gite Michel Fagot the first night we arrived from Geneva Airport, before we started the TMB. The hosts are incredibly friendly and the food is great. It has clean facilities, small 4-bed bunk rooms, and great social areas inside and outside. That night we met many people starting the TMB the next day and, although we had the most amazing time, thunderstorms were rolling in and we were thankful it was not us. Time for a well deserved beach holiday in Spain.
Planning
Terrain
The TMB comprises many different terrains. The mountainous sections primarily comprise narrow dirt trails that can be covered by rock debris or snow in places. Vehicle tracks are also common, including gravel forest roads, farm tracks and access roads for ski field maintenance. There are a few small sections along paved road or highways.
The Route
The TMB is quite well marked throughout its length. Markings vary from detailed signposts including expected walking times, to yellow diamonds spray painted onto rocks, to red and white striped markers (similar to Austrian flag). France and Italy are very well signposted throughout the trail. We noticed fewer signposts and more spray paint markings in Switzerland.
Though the route is well marked, I suggest you carry a map and compass. I brought a two maps on Amazon, which were incredibly helpful:
Other hikers also used a guidebook by Kevin Reynold - The Tour of Mont Blanc: Complete Two-Way Trekking Guide. The book provides day-to-day descriptions of the trail, including maps and photographs. I heard some complaints about the accuracy of his descriptions, but overall the book seems to be helpful if used alongside the maps above.
Timing
Hikers typically take eight to twelve days to complete the TMB circuit. Due to time restrictions and limited refuge availability, we completed the hike in seven days.
Though completing the route in seven days was an exciting challenge, I would recommend spending as much time on the TMB as you can. Chamonix, Courmayeur and Champex are all beautiful and unique alpine towns that are worth exploring for a day or two. There are also many other small hikes from the TMB that would be worth checking out. Come to the mountains with time up your sleeve and take in the spectacular scenery at a leisurely pace.
Our itinerary included the following:
In comparison, a twelve day itinerary might look something like this:
The distance and times for this table are only estimations. For more information about refuges and timing, I recommend checking out this website.
Season
We completed the hike at the start of July, not long after all the refuges open for peak season. The track was very busy and refuges were full, which limited our day-to-day options. This time of the year meant a higher chance of warm weather – we had five days of incredible sunshine, and two overcast days with rain (very lucky!).
The TMB can be completed between June and October, peak season from July to August. Refuges open at the end June and begin to close mid-October. During off-peak times it is likely to encounter snow and cooler weather, however, the route is less busy and refuges have greater availability.
Refuges
Spaced out along the TMB route are refuges or “rifugios” (Italian) or “gites” (French), which provide food and accommodation to those who prefer not to camp. The refuges are a highlight of the hike for sure, often isolated, with incredible mountain views and warm welcomes.
Each refuge provides ‘half board’ pricing options which includes a three course dinner, breakfast and a bed. They will also provide packed lunches for an additional cost.
The price of each refuges in our itinerary are summarised below:
*Note: Swiss refuges are priced in Swiss Francs but most do accept euros as well.
For more details about the refuges and to make a booking, check out this website.
Packing
To hike the Tour du Mont Blanc you will need:
Hiking pack (40L)
Hiking boots
Tops – I carried three Kathmandu hiking tops and one long sleeve thermal
Bottoms – I carried one pair of hiking pants, and one pair of shorts
Fleece
Hiking socks
Underwear and sports bras
Sun hat
Sunglasses
Neck warmer/head band
Sunscreen
Insect repellent
First aid kit
Toiletries – I carried shampoo/conditioner and toothbrush/paste
Silk liner
Towel
Compass
Maps
Camera – I had a GoPro with tripod and underwater attachments
Phone
Portable charger
Wallet – including cash to pay for refuges
Water bladder (2L)
Lunches/snacks
Optional: 700ml bottle of Fireball whisky - for social purposes
Note: This list may vary depending on season, weather conditions and personal preference.
Transport
We arrived at Geneva Airport and took a shuttle directly to our accommodation in Les Houches. The shuttle was provided by AlpyBus and cost €27 one way. There are cheaper bus options available from Geneva Airport to Chamonix, and plenty of buses from Chamonix to Les Houches and Le Tour daily.
If you are starting in Courmayeur, you can take a bus through the Mont Blanc tunnel for about €15 one way.
Luggage Transfer Options
If you prefer not to carry all your equipment, there are options for luggage transfer between the refuges each day. This way you only need to carry a day bag!
It is also possible to leave luggage at Gite Michel Fagot in Les Houches for a small cost to collect on your return.
Useful Blogs/Websites
Finally, some website and traveller blogs that I found useful when preparing for the TMB are included below:
