Bosnia & Herzegovina on a Budget - A Travelers Guide to Mostar
- allannahtravels
- Feb 6, 2019
- 12 min read
Updated: Dec 12, 2019
Only a quarter-century ago, Mostar was a city overwhelmed by violence and destruction. Today, it stands as one of the most remarkable destinations in the Balkans; a city rich in history, culture and natural beauty. Mostar is full of quintessential Ottoman architecture, including its famous UNESCO World Heritage Site, Stari Most. You will find plenty of traditional restaurants, market stalls and mosques, surrounded by beautiful landscapes just waiting to be explored. Whether you have a few hours or a few days, here is my guide to planning the perfect trip to Mostar.
History
It is impossible to visit Mostar and not feel saddened and overwhelmed by the recent violent history that has affected this community. Bullet holes and crumbling buildings are still evident throughout the city; a reminder that the fighting only ceased in the last 25 years. It is still fresh in the minds of the locals, who might be brave enough to share their war-time stories with you. It can be difficult to understand who was fighting who in Mostar; it might help to consider two different siege events:
The initial siege of Mostar took place in 1992 when Bosnia and Herzegovina declared independence from Yugoslavia. Both the newly formed Croat and Bosnian armies fought together to oust the Yugoslav army. Following one month of violence, the independence of Bosnia and Herzegovina was established, but as a result, Mostar suffered severe damage, loss of life and thousands of refugees were displaced.
A year after the Yugoslav army left Mostar, fighting broke out again, but this time between the Bosnian and Croatian armies. Essentially, this was a civil war between the two countries, and it is believed the intention was for Croatia to take over this part of Herzegovina. Mostar was once again devastated; most significantly by the bombing of the beloved Stari Most. A peace agreement was signed one year later, however, many disagreements remain unresolved, and for this reason several besieged buildings still stand in Mostar today.
Things To See and Do
1. Dive from Stari Most
The world-famous Stari Most (meaning simply 'Old Bridge') is the centerpiece of Mostar. The bridge was built by the Ottomans in the 16th century and is an exceptional example of Islamic architecture and fine engineering. It crosses over the beautiful turquoise Neretva River in the heart of Mostar’s historic Old Town. During the civil war, this bridge was destroyed by Croat forces, and has since been rebuilt to its exact original structure. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, having received this status in 2005, and it attracts thousands of tourists to Mostar every year.
One of the major activities in Mostar naturally revolves around its famous bridge. Bridge diving is a traditional, annual competition that has taken place in Mostar for the last 452 years. The dive is compulsory for young men of Mostar, and is considered a passage into man-hood. The distance between the top of the bridge and the river is about 24 metres, and the Neretva River is very cold, making the dive a risky exercise that requires skill and training. During the summer you can watch local professionals dive from the bridge, as well as the occasional courageous tourist. There is even an official annual event as part of Red Bull’s cliff diving competition.
My boyfriend and friend were daring enough to jump from Stari Most during our trip in September 2017 (see the video below). Before you jump, it is compulsory to complete a training course with a local professional. They will teach you the proper technique from lower diving platforms before deciding if it is safe for you take on Stari Most. If you complete the dive, not only will you receive love and admiration from the many tourists watching below, but you are also entered into the famous Mostar Dive book and awarded a certificate that gives you access to any Red Bull diving platform in the world. You can find the Mostar Dive Team at the west end of the bridge (the leader Danny is hard to miss in his red speedos). Training takes 1-2 hours and costs about €30.
2. Shop for trinkets at the Old Bazaar
Winding along the cobbled streets of the Old Town, the Old Bazaar dates back to the 16th century and is full to the brim of traditional restaurants, craft stores, trinkets and souvenirs. The market stretches across both sides of the Stari Most, which divides the Muslim and Christian sides of the city. Wandering through the Bazaar is a must-do in Mostar; the crowded, colourful streets and lively atmosphere only add to its appeal.
Look out for the "Don't Forget" stone placed along the cobblestone street of the bazaar - a reminder of Mostar's devastating past.
3. Step inside the Blagaj Monastery
A 15-minute drive south of Mostar is the small village of Blagaj. Blagaj is home to a famous monastery that was founded by Dervish monks in the 16th century. The monastery is nestled at the foot of a cliff face overlooking a beautiful turquoise pool. Today, the monastery houses a restaurant with tables looking out over the water. You can take a walk through the monastery for a small entrance fee, but be mindful that appropriate clothing is required. There are also many cafes and markets delightfully positioned along the edges of the waterway.
4. Go back in time in Počitelj
The ancient Medieval village of Počitelj is a picturesque location, about 30 minutes south of Mostar. This unique settlement is thought to have been established in 1444, and has recently been established UNESCO heritage site. Besides its stunning oriental architecture, Počitelj hosts the longest operating art colony in southeast Europe. Take some time to wander through the local market stalls, admire the restored Hadzi-Alija Mosque, and climb the iconic Gavrakapetan Tower in the remains of the Utvrda Fortress.
5. Cool off at Kravice Falls
My favourite natural attraction in Bosnia and Herzegovina is, without a doubt, the magical Kravice Falls. Just outside the village of Kravice, the Trebižat River plummets 25 metres into an incredible emerald pool, forming around 25 unique waterfalls. Still relatively unheard of by tourists, you will mostly find locals here on a hot day. The water is cold but refreshing in the summer, and there are many ledges to jump off and trails that take you in and behind the waterfalls - you will definitely need a few hours to explore this enchanting place.
Entrance into the falls is about €5. There is not a public transport route from Mostar to Kravice Falls, and the road conditions can make it difficult to drive. The best way to get here is by tour or taxi. See below for more information about transport and tours.
6. Watch sunset from the Mostar Sniper Tower
During the 1993 siege, Mostar's former Ljubljanska Bank was invaded by Croat forces and turned into a sniper tower. This tower today still stands abandoned in the centre of Mostar; 7-storeys of broken glass, exposed concrete pillars, and scattered rifle casings. It has also become a street artists hub with unique artwork and messages painted across every surface. Although the building is barricaded and considered off-limits to the public, many have found their way inside to explore the remains of the bank and watch the sunset over Mostar from the rooftop.
The Sniper Tower is located just west of the Old Town on the corner of Kneza Domagoja and Kralja Zvonimira. We visited the tower as part of an unofficial tour run by our hostel (Taso's House), and a guide showed us the safest way to access the building. Entering the Sniper Tower is airy and unsettling. The floors are covered with glass and rubble, and the stairwell is open and exposed. In the corner of the building, the corroded steel reinforcements are bent back from explosions; and small holes have been dug out just big enough to see through with a rifle. A rusted steel ladder takes you to rooftop where the view over Mostar is panoramic. We shared a few beers and watched the sunset, as Taso explained the significant role of this building during the siege. The experience is sobering and eye-opening, and one of the highlights of my time in Mostar.
7. Hike to the cross on Hum Hill
The mountains surrounding Mostar are an ideal escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. The most popular trail is the Hum Hill trail that takes you to a huge cross on the hill-side, and provides impressive views across Mostar. From the city centre, the hike takes about two hours one way; we hiked to the top of Hum Hill and hitch-hiked back to town. It is also possible to drive to this hill top, and is often included in day tours.
Transport
Getting to Mostar
If you are already traveling in Europe, the easiest and cheapest way to get to Mostar is by bus. There are two bus stations in Mostar: Bus Station East, located next to the railway station and only a five minute walk from the Old Town, and Bus Station West located in the newer part of the city and a 20 minute walk from the Old Town.
Local bus companies Autoprevoz and Prevoz Putnika provide transport from Sarajevo to Mostar for about €10. The trip takes about 2.5 hours and includes wifi and air conditioning. If you are not in Bosnia and Herzegovina, GetbyBus offers international transport services from Croatia (Dubrovnik, Split, Zagreb and Zadar), Slovenia (Ljubljana), Montenegro (Budva and Kotor), Serbia (Belgrade and Subotica), Germany (Berlin and Munich) and Austria (Vienna). Times, distances and facilities vary depending on the service.
Local hostels will often provide private transfers between cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina - you just need to ask! Depending on the number of travelers, a transfer from Sarajevo to Mostar will cost about €20, and reduce the travel time by about 30 minutes.
Mostar also has an international airport that offers direct flights from Sarajevo and Zagreb, as well as seasonal charter flights from select locations in Italy, Germany, Jordan and Lebanon.
Transport in Mostar
Once you have arrived in Mostar, it is very easy to get around the city by foot, especially if you are staying in the Old Town area. If you want to visit locations such as Kravice Falls, Počitelj and Blagaj, there are a few options for getting there:
Rent a car - renting a compact car from Mostar will cost about €45 per day. Keep in mind that some roads in Bosnia and Herzegovina are difficult to drive. On our way from Sarajevo, we took Road 435a, which ended up being a narrow, winding gravel road over the mountains (see photo below). It was a big adventure but definitely not the short cut we had anticipated.
Take the bus - there are local buses that run from Mostar to Počitelj or Blagaj for €1-€2 return. Check out the timetable on this website. Unfortunately there are no buses to Kravice Falls.
Book at taxi - this is the most convenient option but definitely not the cheapest. Taxi fares start at €2.50 with an additional €0.50 per kilometre. At most, a trip to Kravice Falls will cost about €30.
Join a tour - I do not usually recommend tours, as I love the freedom of traveling on your own, but the tours in Mostar are a little different and a great way to meet locals. I highly recommend getting involved with one of Taso's tours - more information below!
Accommodation
Taso House
If you are staying in Mostar you absolutely have to stay at Taso House. This family home was heavily bombed during the Bosnian War and has since been restored to accommodate backpackers. Taso himself is incredibly welcoming and generous, and makes you feel right at home. The house has many dorm rooms and bunk beds, as well as a large common area (Taso's living room) and outdoor patio. It is located only a two minute walk from the Old Town, and the cost per night is about €8-€10 and includes breakfast, wifi, linens and airport/bus station transfers.
Rooms Deny
If you find that Taso House is fully booked during your visit, don't fear! I also recommend staying at Rooms Deny. Deny is a friend of Taso's who lives around the corner, and has a similar set up for backpackers. The cost per night is about the same, with similar facilities.
Food and Drink
It does not take long to realise that the Bosnian diet mainly consists of meat, bread and cheese. Maybe have a few salads before your trip to Mostar in preparation for the greasy, fatty, sugary but incredibly delicious cuisine of the northern Balkans. Here are some Bosnian foods and drinks that you must try while visiting Mostar:
Cevapi
Cevapi are small, oblong-shaped kebabs made from lamb or beef, served with soft Bosnian pita bread and onions. Each restaurant cooks and seasons their kebabs in a different way, so no two cevapi are likely to taste the same. We sampled cevapi and amazing meat platters from a beautiful restaurant in the Old Town - Šadrvan.
Photo: AGirlWhoTravels
Burek
Burek comes from Turkey and was brought to the Balkans by the Ottoman. Bureks are a soft, flaky pastry filled with a meat, cheese, or spinach. Almost every bakery in the country sells this deliciously greasy snack. Make sure you sample every flavor at Pekara Dan i Noc.
Klepe
If you like ravioli then you will love Klepe. These doughy, Bosnian dumplings are filled with either beef, lamb or cheese, and are usually served with garlic sauce or yogurt.
Dolma
Dolma is a Bosnian twist on a famous Balkan dish. You can find eggplants, zucchini or bell peppers stuffed with minced meat or rice, served warm with a lemon or garlic sauce. I had an incredibly flavorful eggplant dolma at Food House during Taso's sniper tower tour.
Ustipci
These are arguably the most delicious treat in Bosnia! Ustipci are small balls of fried dough with either a sweet or savory filling. Recipes pass from generation to generation making each version slightly different to the next. Sweet ones are often filled with jam or honey, while savory options include, surprisingly, cheese or meat fillings. Locals often snack on these while enjoying a tea or coffee.
Bosnian Beer
Drinking local beer, or "pivo" in Bosnian, rates just as high as trying the national dish. Be sure to sample a few of Mostar’s own Hercegovacka Pivovara at the local Black Dog Pub.
Bosnian Coffee
Bosnian coffee is an integral part of the culture in this country. The coffee comes strong and black, and is served in a beautifully detailed, hand-constructed, copper cup and saucer. Enjoy it bitter or sweeten it with the numerous sugar cubes provided. My favourite place in Mostar to enjoy a morning coffee was Karma Cafe, which has great service and an peaceful view of the Old Bridge.
Tours
I do not usually recommend tours, as I love the freedom of traveling on your own, but the tours in Mostar are a little different and a great way to meet locals. I highly recommend getting involved with one of Taso's tours (you don't have to be staying Taso House to join). He offers two unique experiences:
The first is a day tour in Taso's personal vehicle that includes breakfast at Blagaj Monastery, exploring the Medieval village of Pocitelj, swimming and lunch at Kravice Falls, and enjoying the view from Hum Hill. You also have the opportunity to learn about the country and its recent history from someone who experienced it themselves. It is a fantastic day and costs only €30.
The second tour takes you to Mostar Sniper Tower at sunset. Guides will help you climb to the top of the tower, and explain the significant role of this building during the sieges in Mostar. The experience is sobering and eye-opening, and one of the highlights of my time in this city. The tour is free and on the way home you stop for dinner and drinks at a great local restaurant.
If Taso's tours are fully booked, don't fear, he can arrange one of his friends to take you instead!
Cost
The currency used in Bosnia and Herzegovina is the convertible mark (BAM) with symbol KM. To convert to euros, 1 KM is equivalent to about €0.50, which is easy to remember.
Overall, Bosnia and Herzegovina is a cheap country to travel through, especially when you compare it to other European destinations. Prices might be higher during summer months (June to August) when there are many more tourists visiting Mostar. I spent an average of about €40 per day, broken down into:
Accommodation - for one night in a hostel you can expect to pay between €10-€15. This usually includes breakfast and wifi.
Transport - buses to and from Sarajevo are about €10, and transfers will range from €15-€30, depending on the number of passengers. Once you are in Mostar, transport is not really required. You can take tours to local sites and the city is small enough that walking is a good option.
Food/Drink - you can expect to spend about €18 per day on food and drink, but this will vary from person to person. A main meal at a restaurant is about €8; pastries from a bakery range from about €1-€4; a bottle of water is €0.20; a beer is about €2; and coffee is no more than €2 per cup.
Activities - if you are planning to take a day tour from Mostar, the cost is about €30, which includes transport, entrance to all sites, and breakfast. The cost for the training to dive from Stari Most is also €30.
Other - make sure you set aside a little cash for trinkets and gifts from the Old Bazaar.
Note that tipping is not expected in Bosnia and Herzegovina, but it is polite to tip tour guides and round up if you do not have the exact amount of cash.
Timing
I have visited Mostar twice during my travels; the first time was a two-day trip in August 2016, and the second time I stayed for five days in September 2017. Peak season in Mostar is from June to August during the summer months. I recommend visiting in a shoulder season (May or September) when the weather is still warm and there are less tourists crowding the Old Town streets. Plan your visit for at least two days to really appreciate what Mostar has to offer.
The general weather conditions for each season in Mostar are:
Summer - average high of about 30°C, and dropping to 20°C overnight.
Spring/Autumn - average high of about 24°C, and dropping to about 15°C overnight
Winter - very mild in this part of the world with average high of about 10°C, and rarely dropping below 5°C
