top of page
Search

A Backpackers Guide to the Bay of Kotor, Montenegro

  • allannahtravels
  • Feb 23, 2019
  • 8 min read

Updated: Dec 12, 2019


The Bay of Kotor, known also simply as Boka, is a bay in the heart of the Adriatic Sea in southwestern Montenegro. It is an area of exceptional natural beauty and historical significance that is overlooked and underestimated by most. Although it is not technically a fjord, it resembles one, with towering green mountains providing a backdrop for the bright blue water of the Bay. The shoreline is filled with magnificent beaches, perfectly preserved Medieval towns and numerous historic monuments, with an all-year-round warm, Mediterranean climate. This unique destination should be on the radar of every backpacker; here my guide to help you visit the Bay of Kotor on the budget.

 

Geography and Geology

The Bay of Kotor is 105 kilometers long and can be divided into the four main gulfs connected by narrower channels. At the entrance from the Adriatic Sea lies the Bay of Herceg Novi; the outermost part of the bay is the Bay of Tivat; and the innermost bays are Bay of Risan to the northwest and the Bay of Kotor to the southeast. The narrowest section of the Bay is known as Verige Strait and is only 340 metres wide. At most, the Bay reaches depths of approximately 50 metres.

Surrounding the Bay are two massifs of the Dinaric Alps - the Orjen Mountains to the west and the Lovćen mountains to the east. The mountains are primarily limestone, originally derived from the ocean floor, and subsequently thrust above the Earth's surface by tectonic forces. Unlike the narrow inlets surrounding the coasts of Norway and Iceland, the Bay of Kotor was not carved by glaciers (so is not considered a fjord). This Bay was instead created when rising sea levels downed the ancient river valley of the Bokeij River, that used to run from the high mountain plateaus of Mount Orjen. This feature is known to geomorphologists as a ria.

 

Places to Visit

1. Herceg Novi

Herceg Novi is the gateway to Kotor Bay and is said to be a good alternative to visiting the tourist-filled and expensive city of Dubrovnik. It is a wonderfully peaceful beach-side town, filled with glorious Ottoman architecture and overflowing with fruit trees and market stalls. Here are a few things worth seeing:

Visit the Old Town - positioned on a fairly steep hill that leads down to the ocean, explore the small stairways to various plazas, palaces and churches.

Kanli Kula Fortress - this fortress dominates the Old Town and provides incredible views of Kotor Bay

Hike up Mt. Orjen - the trail starts in town and takes anywhere between 1-4 hours return depending how far you want to explore!

Walk the Promenade - a six-kilometre-long walkway that stretches from Igalo, through Herceg Novi, and into nearby Meljine. You can cool off in one of the many beaches along the pathway.

2. Kotor Old Town

The town of Kotor rests in a magnificent mountain valley, and is tightly knitted between the steep mountainsides and the Bay. The Old Town of Kotor is the highlight of this destination; an incredibly well-preserved walled fortress constructed between the 12th and 14th centuries. The medieval architecture and monuments within the Old Town have named Kotor a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site. Allow a day to explore this historic maze of alleyways, churches, palaces, souvenir shops and eateries.

3. San Giovanni Fortress

The San Giovanni Fortress (or Castle of Saint John to English-speaking tourists) is perched at 1,200 metres on the hill of Saint John above Kotor. The fortifications date back as far as 532 BC, and are still remarkably preserved. Since its construction, the fortress has seen plenty of changes and battles under Venetian, Russian and French rule. It has been bombed by British Naval armies, occupied during World War II, and even survived three separate earthquake events.

For a €3 donation you can climb to the top of the fortress for exceptional views over Kotor and the Bay. Given how steep it is, the climb requires a good level of fitness and sturdy walking shoes, and if you are walking in the summer make sure you take plenty of water. It takes about an hour to reach to top.

4. Perast

Perast is an picturesque stone town that lies in the centre of the Bay of Kotor. Its seafront is lined with stone palaces that display the glory of a bygone era, once home to the rulers of Kotor. It has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site with over 16 palaces, 17 churches, and nine defensive towers still remaining from its medieval past. Be sure to spend some time wandering the small stairways of the village, and enjoy a meal overlooking Verige Strait and the two island churches of Our Lady of the Rocks and Saint George.

5. Our Lady of the Rocks

Floating off Perast’s shore, framed by mountain peaks and cobalt blue waters, Our Lady of the Rocks is one of the Montenegro's most photographed landmarks. This Roman Catholic Church was built on a man-made island, founded over 500 years ago. Legend has it, two brothers found an icon of Madonna on a rock here and decided to build the church using large rocks and tattered ships.

A small fee (about €3) will get you a guided tour of the church and museum, which houses fascinating local artifacts from the area. You can visit the island by taking a ferry from either Perast or Kotor; be sure to dress conservatively - they will not let you on the island in swimwear.

6. Njegos Mausoleum

Njegos Mausoleum is the highest mausoleum on the world, located on top of Mount Lovćen at 1657 metres above sea level. The mausoleum was constructed between 1970 and 1974 to honor Montenegro’s greatest historical person: the poet and prince Petar Petrovic II Njegos. At the top of the 461 steps, the views are dramatic and panoramic - you may be lucky enough to see Italian coast. Entrance into the mausoleum costs €3 - a small price to pay for this incredible experience and insight into Montenegrin culture.

Photo: Enoch Law

7. Lipci Prehistoric Drawings

The prehistoric drawings in Lipci are evidence of the long history of human settlement in the Bay of Kotor. From the town of Lipci in the northwest corner of the Bay, a 10-minute walk into the bush brings you to a small cave and limestone cliff. Look carefully and you will be able to see the faded ancient drawings on the cliff face that date back to the 8th century BC. For my fellow geologists and rock-lovers, this location is a must see.

8. Porto Montenegro

A decade ago, Tivat was a fairly unremarkable town in the Bay of Kotor, and Porto Montenegro was a retired army shipyard that had languished in disrepair. Today, Porto Montenegro is the only Platinum-rated marina in the world and is home to some of the world’s biggest and best luxury yachts. Far from being an exclusive destination, Porto Montenegro invites visitors to walk along the jetty, shop in the village, and visit the many delicious restaurants along the waterfront. In contrast to the historical sights throughout the Bay, Porto Montenegro is a fun and different experience with budget dining options as well.

 

Transport

I highly recommend renting a vehicle in Dubrovnik and exploring the Bay of Kotor at your own pace. Even though we was traveling on a budget, this was a great option because it meant we could freedom camp along the coast. We rented a compact car from SIXT Car Rental in Dubrovnik centre for about €20 per day.

 

Accommodation

We traveled with a compact tent which meant that, during the summer, we could camp at some amazing spots along the coast. Since our trip, freedom camping along the Bay of Kotor coast has been banned, but there are a couple of campsites available. We stayed at Autocamp Todorovic in Kostanjica, which was a simple site directly on the water, with basic facilities for only €3 per night. Autocamp Naluka down the road is a more established site with excellent facilities for €15 per night.

There are also many accommodation options in Kotor. Hostels are the best option for a budgeting traveler, ranging from €18-25 per night. I spent one night at Montenegro Hostel 4U, which I would highly recommend for its location, cleanliness, and exciting atmosphere. One night here cost about €18 and included breakfast and wifi.

 

Food and Drink

Seafood

Fresh, generously portioned and incredibly cheap - the Bay of Kotor is a seafood-lovers heaven. Seafood platters and dishes can be ordered from almost any of the waterfront restaurants and cafes along the coast - our favourite was Hipnos Restaurant in Risan. Be sure to also try Buzara - a local dish that includes an assortment of seafood cooked in either a red or white sauce. The red sauce is made with red wine, onions, tomatoes, herbs and spices, and the white sauce is made with white wine. Delicious!

Burek

Burek is the ultimate Balkan breakfast - filo pastry filled with cheese, meat, spinach or potato, and often served with a bottle of plain yogurt. You can find burek at any bakery (pekara) for about €0.80.

Cevapi

You won’t find western takeaways like McDonald’s in Montenegro, but you will see cevapi on just about every corner. Cevapi are small, oblong sausages of pork or beef, served with pita bread and home-grown tomato and cucumber. A very traditional Balkan meal for about €4.

Black Risotto

A coastal specialty, black risotto gets its famous black colour from cuttlefish ink. A really good black risotto also has subtle flavours of white wine, garlic and nutmeg. It’s a must-try while on the coast, but watch out, black risotto also turns your teeth black!

Coffee

The coffee in the Bay of Kotor is best served iced (and sometimes with ice cream). Our daily coffee was more fun in Montenegro, purchased from one of the many small water-side bars along the Bay, and usually accompanied with a swim. Our favourite spot was Pirate Bar in Perast.

 

Cost

Accommodation - for one night in a hostel you can expect to pay between €18-€25. This usually includes breakfast and wifi. Camping can cost as little as €3, or up to €15 for a more established site.

Transport - a rental car from Dubrovnik will cost about €20 per day. Buses to and from Podgorica are about €6, and buses to and from Dubrovnik are €18 . Once you are in Kotor, local buses never cost more than €2 to tourist destinations.

Food/Drink - you can expect to spend about €16 per day on food and drink, but this will vary from person to person. A main meal at a restaurant costs between €7-€14; pastries from a bakery range from about €0.50-€3; a bottle of water is €1; a beer is about €2.50; and coffee is no more than €2 per cup.

Activities - Entry into Njegos Mausoleum, Our Lady on the Rocks, and San Giovanni Fortress is about €3 each. Also allow a little extra budget for outdoor activities or trinket shopping.

Note that a tip of about 10% is usually expected in restaurants in Montenegro. It is also polite to tip tour guides and round up if you do not have the exact amount of cash.

 

Timing

We visited the Bay of Kotor for five days during August 2017. Peak season in this area is from June to August during the summer months. I recommend visiting in a shoulder season (May or September) when the weather is still warm and there are less tourists crowding the Old Town streets. Plan your visit for at least three days to really appreciate what coastal Montenegro has to offer.

The general weather conditions for each season in the Bay of Kotor are:

Summer - average high of about 30°C, and dropping to 17°C overnight.

Spring/Autumn - average high of about 20°C, and dropping to about 10°C overnight

Winter - very mild in this part of the world with average high of about 15°C, and rarely dropping below 5°C

Thanks for reading my guide to visiting the Bay of Kotor! Be sure to check out more of my travel guides here.


bottom of page