The Albanian Alps - Hiking from Valbona to Theth

Mostly unheard of to people outside of Albania, the hike from Valbona to Theth (also written Valbone and Thethi) is one of the most popular in the Accursed Mountains. The hike follows an old mule trail over a mountain pass at approximately 1820m, providing vast, spectacular views of the two National Parks. The hike represents a portion of the 200-kilometre-long trekking ring called the ‘Peaks of the Balkans’, which also passes through Kosovo and Montenegro.

This hike is unlike those in my other blogs – it is relatively easy and can be completed in about 5 hours. However, I wanted to share my experience in the Alps because it was incredibly unique, not only for the scenery, but the people and culture too. Forget public transport and expensive refuges - this destination is off the beaten track, requiring you to rely on locals for transport, accommodation and guidance – half the fun was getting there.

My entire trip to the Albanian Alps was one unforgettable adventure and the perfect way to experience the beauty and traditions of this foreign land. This blog provides details of my trip including my itinerary, what I packed, and other tips to help you experience it for yourself.

Day 1 – Getting to Valbona

Transport: 2 minivans and a ferry

Distance: At least 150km

Ascent: 925m

Time: 6 hours

Highlights: Lake Koman and hanging out with Valbona locals

I began in Shkodër – a city close to the Albania/Montenegro border. I had hoped to rent a car and drive to the mountains for a few days of camping and hiking. Knowing what I know about the area now, I realise how ridiculous this was. It is very difficult to drive around the mountains – the roads are sparse and unmaintained, and a ferry crossing is necessary to get between Koman and Fierze. My advice is to forget the car - the best way to see the Alps is to join a ‘tour’ from a local hostel.

I stayed at Wanderers Hostel, which I highly recommend – they were very helpful and knowledgeable of the area, there are bikes to hire, free breakfast, and they let you leave your bags in storage while you are in the mountains. The tour details are vague and nothing is paid up front – so make sure you take plenty of cash (details to come).

At 6:00am, after a nutritious breakfast of chocolate pastries, a small fleet of minivans picked me and about 12 other travellers up, and we started the journey to Lake Koman. The drive takes about 1.5 hours and the second half of the drive is slow, along a winding, gravel road. After driving through the most poorly engineered tunnel I have ever seen, you arrive at the Lake Koman ferry dock – now the trip gets more exciting.

GEO FACT

Like most of the European Alps, the mountains in Albania are predominantly limestone. This sedimentary rock usually forms in warm, shallow marine environments by the accumulation of shell, coral and algal debris. Be sure to look out for fossils!

The ferry journey along Lake Koman provides a first glimpse of dramatic limestone peaks, as well as insight into lives of locals living in remote lake-side villages. The trip takes approximately three hours – plenty of time to sunbathe on the deck and take in the scenery. At Fierza Ferry Terminal you are greeted by more minivans (or “furgon” in the local language) and you start the third leg of the journey to Valbona.

GEO FACT

If limestone was formed in the sea, then how did these mountain ranges come to be? It is the result of plate tectonics, and the clash of Africa and Europe hundreds of millions of years ago. Compression of these two continents caused rock layers to emerge from the sea, and rise up for thousands of metres to form the landscape we see today.

Valbona Village (995m)

Arriving in Valbona was not what I had expected. It is not your typical touristic alpine town, but instead a few traditional houses scattered throughout the valley. There are some chalets offering accommodation, a couple of restaurants, and plenty of places to camp; but do not expect to shop for groceries or souvenirs during your stay.

It is possible to pre-book accommodation at guesthouses in the area, however, I recommend staying with local families – they will provide food and accommodation for 5-15 euros. You just need to knock on their door and ask!

We hitchhiked along a road for an hour or so, enquiring at a few homes. The locals were very generous and seemed to enjoy helping us out – one man actually kicked two family members out of his car so that he could drive us down the road.

Eventually we found a place to stay – a small wooden house about 200m walk from the main road, and close to the start of the hiking trail. We stayed in a sleep-out with bunks and a bathroom, and ate meals in a large dining room with the family. They offered us fish, chicken, pork - all meat sourced locally from the river and farmland. I quickly became aware of their traditionally large portion sizes when I was served an entire roast chicken for dinner.

Day one ended with a wicked sunset over the mountains and a few cups of tea with new friends.

Day 2 – Hiking from Valbona to Theth

Transport: Hiking

Distance: 15km

Accent/Descent: 825m/1,104m

Time: 4-5 hours

Highlights: Views from Valbona Pass, towering limestone peaks

After another breakfast of chocolate croissants and farewells to our new Albanian family, we made our way to the start of the hiking trail. The official start is at the end of the main road (Rruga Azem Hajdari), next to the Valbona Hotel. The first 3.5km of the trail is through a riverbed along a rough, gravelly vehicle track. As the morning clouds parted, giant, towering limestone peaks appeared above us – only a glimpse of what is to come.

At the end of the vehicle track you see a small cluster of houses – this is the village of Rragam. An espresso from the local café may help you ascend what follows. The trail narrows and follows a winding stream towards the mountains.

This part of the trail is the only part where a map may be required. As we didn’t have one, we unknowingly followed a trail across a small bridge and ended up at a waterfall. This is a scenic detour and there is no trail or signage beyond this point, which was incredibly confusing. We had to backtrack and bush-bash, adding about an hour (and a few battle scars) to our hiking day.

Remember: After the café, you will reach a clearing and a fork in the track – take the right-hand trail up-slope to continue to Theth, or the small bridge on the left-hand side for a scenic waterfall detour (approximately 40 minutes return).

From here, the trail steepens significantly and you begin a gravelly, zig-zagging ascent to the Valbona Pass. The trail passes through small forests and wide, green meadows. Along the way you encounter another ‘café’ where you can fill up your water bottles.

After a steep but not prohibitive ascent along a gravel path, you reach the Pass (1820m). The reward is the spectacular, panoramic views opening up both Valbona and Theth valleys as far as the eye can see. What amazed me the most was the distinctly different weather conditions either side – with cloud cover in Valbona, and bright blue, crystal clear skies over Theth. The colours of each landscape even appeared to be different.

GEO FACT

After the Alps, these mountains are the most glaciated in Europe. Wide V-shaped valleys, deep river canyons, steep limestone walls, and hollows up to 1000m deep are evidence that glacial processes dominated this landscape in the past. The extreme features in mountain range are the reason it has not been explored entirely, and remains rugged and untouched.

The descent to Theth village is not very long, but can be very steep – with over 1000m change in altitude. The trail winds through small forests and wide, open tussocky meadows with incredible, picturesque mountain views. You pass one last café about half way down – in the heat of the day it was time for a beer.

GEO FACT

The Accursed Mountains run parallel with the Sar Mountains in Macedonia, Albania and Kosovo. This tectonic clash produced the unusual zig-zag shape of the mountain range that you see in aerial photography, and also caused them to curve to the northwest.

The final 2km or so you are faced with a very steep, gravelly descent – take care! Eventually the trail joins a gravel vehicle track, which winds down to the village of Gjalaj. Theth Village is only 100 metres further along the river.

Theth Village (716m)

Theth is a similar setting to Valbona – remote and untouched, an area of outstanding natural beauty in the heart of the Accursed Mountains. The village is home to only 17 families. Alongside their farmhouses, you will find a bar, café, school and church. The surrounding area contains spectacular caves, waterfalls and a crystal-clear, meandering river. Theth is place worth exploring, even if only for the afternoon.

GEO FACT

Theth National Park is Europe’s largest region of karst topography. Sinkholes, chasms and caves are found all across the landscape, formed by the dissolution of limestone by water infiltration. There are about 170 caves in Theth valley – the most beautiful are Rrarthëve and Harapi, which are worth a visit while you are in the area.

Day Two or Three - Returning to Shkoder

Transport: Minivan

Distance: 80km

Ascent/Descent: 1,190m/1,863m

Time: 3 hours

Highlights: Experiencing one of the world’s most dangerous roads and Albanian hip-hop

Once you arrive in Theth you have the option of spending the night, or making the trip back to Shkoder. Unfortunately I had a bus to catch the following day, so had to leave for Theth immediately; but I recommend staying if you have to time - you might find some locals willing to take you fishing!

Again, getting back to Shkoder relies completely on locals as there is no public transport. Myself and five other travellers enquired at a bar and found a local man willing to make the trip in his minivan for €60, which was a great deal considering the trip ahead.

His minivan had been recently modified and kitted out with blue and red leather upholstery, and an ultra-modern sound system to blast Albanian hip-hop.

The road from Theth to Koplik is advertised as one of most dangerous in the world; gravel, narrow, undulating, single-laned with two-way traffic, and steep ravines to either side. Our local driver maintained a speed of about 80km/hr regardless of the road conditions. We encountered a few of tourists who had attempted to drive the road in rental cars and let’s just say I was happy with my decision.

After 15km of chaos the road becomes sealed and levels out as you approach the Koplik area. We stopped in the small village of Bogë to change drivers, buy hot chips, and play basketball with local kids.

It took about three hours total to reach Shkoder town centre. It was a huge, exhausting day but one of the most unforgettable throughout my travels. I left Albania with a new appreciation for its untouched natural beauty, and for the genuine friendliness and generosity of its local people. So unaffected by mass tourism – Albania feels like a completely different world, and is a great place to get off the beaten track.

Planning

Terrain

The route predominantly comprises narrow dirt trails (old mule trails) with a couple of steep, gravelly sections. It starts and finishes along a gravel, vehicle track.

The Route

The route is easy to follow and no map is required. There are no markers along the route but it rarely diverges – the one exception being the trail to the waterfall. You will often see farmers and locals with donkeys who point you in the right direction, and you can download digital maps online to guide you.

Note: Though very rarely seen, there are snakes and bears in the Albanian Alps – maybe think twice before taking a shortcut through the bush.

Timing

The hike can easily be completed in a day. It took us a total of five hours – and that included photo stops and refreshment breaks.

Direction

It is possible to do the hike in the opposite direction – starting in Theth and finishing in Valbona. We encountered many people walking towards us on the trail. I recommend walking Valbona to Theth (north to south) as it provides as more gradual ascent. It is also more popular which is great if you are a solo traveller like me and want to make friends!

Season

I completed the hike in mid-August and it was hot. I suggest starting the walk early to avoid the heat of the day.

It is not possible to hike from Valbona to Theth in winter due to snow cover. Spring and autumn are fine depending on weather conditions. Summer is prime time!

Cost

Compared to hiking in other European countries – this trip is as cheap as chips!

Although it is described by the hostel as a ‘tour’, you do not pay anything up front, so be sure to take cash with you. The rough costs in euros are:

Transport €25 - €40

Shkoder to Koman (minivan) €5

Koman to Fierze (ferry) €5 - €10

Fierze to Valbona (minivan) €5

Theth to Shkoder (party van) €10 - €20

Accommodation and meals €5 - €15

I took €60 for one night and that was plenty. If you decide to stay in Theth you will need a little extra. Don’t forget a little small change for coffee and beers along the trail!

Packing

For the trip you will need:

Hiking pack
Hiking boots
Tops – One hiking top, one casual top, and one thermal for the evening
Bottoms – Hiking shorts and a pair of pants for the evening
Waterproof jacket
Underwear
Sun hat
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
First aid kit
Toiletries – I carried soap and toothbrush/paste
Camera – I had a GoPro with tripod and other attachments
Phone
Portable charger
Wallet (with cash)
Water bottle – there are cafes and streams with fresh water so you don’t need to carry too much
Lunch/snacks – I brought enough food for the hike (fruit, crackers and nuts)

Note: This list may vary depending on weather conditions and personal preference.

If you are travelling with more gear, most hostels will let you leave your belongings in their care while you are away. I left my camping equipment at the Wanderers Hostel free of charge.