The Alta Via 1 - A Travelers Guide

The Alta Via 1 is the original high altitude trail running through the Dolomite Mountains in north-eastern Italy. The trail starts at Lago di Braies and finishes 150 kilometres later in Belluno, with a total ascent of 6,665m.

The Dolomite Mountain Range consists of 21 peaks that rise above 3,000m and cover 1420km2. It features some of the most beautiful and unique landscapes, including towers, pinnacles and needles; plateaus and terraces; lakes and deep, narrow valleys. The Alta Via 1 takes you up close to these dramatic geological features and provides spectacular views of one of the most attractive landscapes in the world. The Dolomite Mountain Range is included on the UNESCO World Heritage List for its outstanding universal value.

The Alta Via 1 was the second long-distance hiking trail I took on during my travels in Europe. The Dolomites were a place I had dreamed about visiting, as their geological significance was something discussed often during my studies. I couldn’t think of a better way to experience the mountain range than to walk the length of it. I spent eight days hiking from hut to hut; taking on the largest ascents and steepest descents I have ever seen; observing new wildlife; meeting amazing hikers (and runners) from all over the world; and being constantly amazed by spectacular mountainous scenery. The hike was much tougher than I anticipated, but incredibly rewarding, and the Dolomites have since become my favourite place in the world.

Hiking the Alta Via 1

Day One – Lago de Braies to Rifugio Pederü

Distance: 14km

Ascent: 1010m

Time: 5 hours

Trail Numbers: 1, 6A, 7

Difficulty: Moderate

The Alta Via 1 starts at Lago de Braies (800m) - a stunning teal coloured lake surrounded by forest and Dolomite peaks. A wide gravel trail takes you around the western lake edge, before the narrow and winding ascent to Forcella Sora Forno (2,388m).

Part of the climb is aided by fixed chains, which is only really necessary in wet or icy conditions. Dramatic grey rock formations greet you at the top and the panoramic view is vast and breath-taking. You have officially entered the Natural Park of Dolomiti d’Ampezzo.

GEO FACT

Dolomite or dolostone is a sedimentary rock comprised primarily of the mineral dolomite, which gives it its unique pale appearance. It is thought to form when lime mud or limestones are modified by post-depositional chemical change.

A brief descent and you arrive at Rifugio Biella (2,300m) - many hikers choose to stay here the first night to shorten the first day. From Rifugio Biella, you join up with Routes 6A and 7, and follow predominantly gravel vehicle tracks, which wind through grassy, boulder-filled valleys and dense forests via Rifugio Sennes. The final 2 km of the trail includes a very steep, zig-zagging descent to Rifugio Pederü (1,550m).

Accommodation: Rifugio Pederü is quite modern – it is very spacious with a great outdoor area. It is accessible by road so the restaurant is often filled with day hikers and mountain bikers. The food is good and reasonably priced with a generous breakfast. Wifi and towels provided.

Day Two – Rifugio Pederü to Rifugio Scotoni

Distance: 15km

Ascent: 1060m

Time: 7 hours

Trail Numbers: 7, 11, 20B, 10

Difficulty: Moderate

Day Two begins with an uphill stretch through landscape studded with small lakes and rounded mountain tops, following the Ru d’Al Plan River. The trail is gravelly and undulating, alternating between gravel road and narrow hiking track. At the fork, continue to the left toward Lago di Limo, until you reach Rifugio Fanes (2,060m). From here, you climb to Passoidi Limo (2,172m), enjoying beautiful panoramic views of the Western Dolomites, and the “Queen of the Dolomites” – Marmolada Massif.

The trail levels out and you will find the beautiful Lago de Limo – a great place to stop for a snack and take a few photos. Passing an old military building and wooden cross, you eventually reach Ucia de Gran Fanes (2,104m) - an old farmhouse converted to basic accommodation.

GEO FACT

What makes these mountains geologically significant is not just their unique composition and pale appearance, but also the complex history that has shaped them, which is still evident in the formations today. Ancient fossil reefs and atolls in the Dolomites indicate that this would have once been a shallow, tropical environment, and home to a large number of species. Calcium carbonate sediments from shells and coral is deposited on the sea floor, and over time consolidated to produce limestone and dolomite rock.

The route continues to one of my favourite parts of the Alta Via 1 – through a beautiful grassy valley, filled with wild flowers and shadowed by dramatic Dolomite peaks. On a sunny day look out for rainbows – where light is reflecting from the snowy mountain tops.

Near the end of the valley, take the turn off along Route 21B. This route takes you through a narrow gap between Forca d Lago (2,468m) and its neighbouring peak. The trail is narrow and covered with loose gravel and boulders, often with a steep drop to one side, and can be snow covered - even in July!

On some maps this route is marked “for expert hikers only” – don’t let this put you off. It refers to the incredibly steep descent on the other side of the mountain, which was taken out by a landslide years ago. Since then, however, the trail has been reconstructed and though steep, it is wide and straightforward. Simply take care and choose appropriate footwear.

The descent takes you to Lago di Lagazuoi, a picturesque lake at the base of the mountains. From here, turn right onto Route 10, and follow another steep descent to a clearing featuring Rifugio Scotoni (2,040m).

Accommodation: Rifugio Scotoni is beautifully located in a grassy valley, with alpacas and other wildlife close by. It is small and doesn’t sleep many, so has a homely feel with friendly and accommodating staff. The food is amazing – the best breakfast of the entire trip! Wifi and towels are provided.

Day Three – Rifugio Scotoni to Rifugio Cinque Torri

Distance: 13km (via Nuvolau)

Ascent: 730m

Time: 7.5 hours

Trail Numbers: 20, 401, 441, 439

Difficulty: Moderate

Day three begins by retracing your steps to Lago di Lagazuoi. From the lake, the trail begins a long, gradual climb to Rifugio Lagazuoi (2,750m) along Route 20. At the end of July, this section was largely snow covered. This made it difficult to follow trail markers and I got caught up in some deep snow pockets, inevitably taking much longer the reach Rifugio Lagazuoi than expected. The refuge is not actually on the trail, but worth the 20 minute detour for the incredible 360-degree view it provides.

From here, you can skip the historic Via Ferrata trail, and take the gravelly descent to Passo Falzarego (2,109m) - a small village along the SR48, and a popular tourist destination for motorbike enthusiasts.

There are many routes to take from Falzarego to Cinque Torri, however, I recommend hiking Rifugio Nuvolau via Averau (2,648m). Follow Route 441 past Col Gallina, toward Croda Negra. As you get higher, some sections of the trail are snow covered, and cut through narrow gaps in rock formations (really fun - some climbing may be necessary). Eventually you arrive behind Averau (2,648m) with spectacular views to the south. Wind around the base of the peak until you pop out at Rifugio Averau (2,415m).

GEO FACT

If Dolomite was formed in the sea, then how did these mountain ranges come to be? It is the result of plate tectonics - particularly the clash of the African and European plates hundreds of millions of years ago. Compression of these two continents formed the European Alps; this is when the Dolomites emerged from the sea, rising up for thousands of metres.

From Rifugio Averau, the hike to Rifugio Nuvolau takes roughly 20 minutes and involves a 150m ascent. The panoramic views are vast and breath-taking, with Dolomite peaks in all directions, and the town of Cortina d’Ampezzo beneath you.

Backtrack down to Rifugio Averau, and follow the gravel vehicle track to Rifugio Cinque Torri (2,135m), situated below the iconic rock formation of the same name.

Accommodation: Rifugio Cinque Torri is the lowest of the four Rifugios in this area. It is small and cosy; a popular hut for rock climbers. The host is lovely. The food is delicious (I recommend the pesto Gnocchi, made with all locally grown produce) and can be enjoyed with beautiful sunset views behind the mountain ranges. Wifi is available but limited.

Day Four – Rifugio Cinque Torri to Rifugio Città de Fiume

Distance: 14km

Ascent: 450m

Time: 6 hours

Trail Numbers: 443, 436, 458, 467

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate

There are two possible routes to Rifugio Città de Fiume – Route 443 via Passo di Giau, or 437 via Croda da Lago. The owner of Rifugio Cinque Torri suggested I take Route 443; though it is the longer option, he insisted the views are more spectacular, and he was not wrong!

Route 443 takes you around the base of Nuvolau – look up and you will see the pulley system that carries supplies to the refuge! The trail is small and undulating, and climbs up and down through three valleys. The rock formations and boulders are amazing, and fun to climb on. Eventually you reach Passo di Giau (2,236m) along SP638 - a tourist stop-over with a general store and accommodation.

Cross the highway and follow Route 436 south toward Forcella de Col Piombin (2,239m). The trail eventually takes you to Forcella di Giau (2,360m) after plenty of ups and downs (and snake sightings). Inspiring views of both northern and southern mountains; including the dramatically tilted flanks of Monte Mondeval. Huge rock faces to your left as you wind through rock fall and landslide debris, crossing the occasional stream. Look out for rock climbers on the walls - they give you an idea of the scale of these rock faces.

GEO FACT

Also responsible for shaping the Dolomite Mountains are faults – fractures generated by tectonic activity. These broke up the Dolomite region into many sectors, raising and lowering them, and tilting them to create the dramatically sloped features we see today.

You climb the saddle to Forcella Ambrizzola (2,277m) where you meet Route 437 from Croda da Lago. A brief scramble through rock debris follows, and short descent to the abandoned stalls of Malga Prendera. Along Route 458 you face an easy walk through alpine meadows to Rifugio Citta de Fiume (1,920m), sheltered below the grand Monte Pelmo (3,168m).

Accommodation: Rifugio Citta de Fiume was one of my favourite stays. The accommodation itself is nothing special, but the atmosphere is great. I met a wonderful group of hikers (and Norwegian trail runners), and we enjoyed the sun, ate great food and tried the local schnapps provided by the hosts. The location is amazing - remote and isolated. Wifi is provided but limited.

Day Five – Rifugio Città de Fiume to Rifugio Tissi

Distance: 17km

Ascent: 930m

Time: 8.5 hours

Trail Numbers: 472, 474, 568, 556, 560

Difficulty: Moderate

From Rifugio Città de Fiume, the trail takes you around the northern face of Monte Pelmo, and down to Passo Staulanza (1,785m). From here, you have two options to reach Rifugio Coldai:

The direct route - Route 568 which follows SP251 before weaving through farmland with a gentle climb to the refuge, or;
The detour - Routes 472/474/564 via Rifugio Palafavera and dinosaur trace fossils.

Naturally I chose the dinosaur fossil option, adding about two hours to my day (the longest day yet) and an extra 200m ascent – but 100% worth it.

Following Route 472 for approximately 2 km, you find a sign directing you to the “Impronte di Dinosauri”. The trail from here becomes rough and very steep – it can be hard to follow as you scramble through rock debris. Allow about 40 minutes in total, returning cautiously along the same trail.

GEO FACT

For the duration of the Mesozoic (70 to 250 million years ago), a large number of new species appeared in the Dolomite region; among these, the most famous were undoubtedly the dinosaurs. These footprints (or trace fossils), and many others throughout the Dolomites are evidence of their presence. On this rock surface appear three different footprints from three different dinosaurs – Coelophysis, Dilophosaurus, and Fabrosaurus (left to right). An incredible discovery!

Once returning to the trail you‘re faced with a steep descent into Rifugio Palafavera (1,520m); where you will also find a campsite and general store if you need to stock up on supplies. The next section is not particularly scenic. It follows Route 564 along a winding gravel vehicle track up to an old farmhouse. I ended up listening my iPod to make the walk a little more enjoyable.

From here, you start the ascent to Rifugio Coldai, and continue to the beautiful Lago Coldai (2,100m) – a turquoise lake housing the highest altitude fish I have ever seen. The water is freezing but refreshing if you fancy a dip before taking on the final section of the day.

The unique beauty of the Dolomites continues as you traverse around the towering west face of Monte Civetta (3,237m). This “wall of walls” extends for over 6 kilometres and is one section taller than El Capitan of Yosemite. Midway along the wall you will see Rifugio Tissi perched on a western mountain top.

Often snow covered, this trail is tricky and in places hard to follow - be sure to check your maps often and keep clear of deep snowy sections and scree slopes. Once you reach a hikers memorial, you start the final climb to Rifugio Tissi (2,250m) – named after a famous mountaineer and politician from Belluno.

Accommodation: This overnight stay is memorable. On the mountain top edge, Rifugio Tissi is exposed but with it comes incredible views of Civetta and the Alleghe Valley. Soon after sunset an electrical storm rolled in – reminding us of our vulnerable location. The refuge is spacious and clean. The facilities are small and food is basic, but this is expected with such limited access. Wifi is provided.

Day Six – Rifugio Tissi to Rifugio San Sebastian

Distance: 17km

Ascent: 910m

Time: 8 hours

Trail Numbers: 563, 560, 554, 549

Difficulty: Moderate

Day six is a tough one; it is long and the terrain is rugged and repetitive. If you are walking alone I recommend joining up with other hikers - I joined another solo hiker (Georgina from Australia) and we helped each other along.

From Rifugio Tissi, you can follow Route 563 over the Col Rean. Eventually the trail re-joins Route 560 and you hike through beautiful, green meadows to the narrow valley of Val Corpassa. The trail takes you right below the sheer rock faces of Torre Venezia (2,337m) and Torre Trieste (2,458m) – looking out for rock climbers!

Passing Rifugio Vazzoler (1,714m), you continue along a gravel vehicle track, before ascending steeply though a dense forest. Route 554 then follows the southern flank of Monte Moiazza through rock debris and snow, with one short cable passage around an outcrop, and on to Forella del Camp (1,933m).

GEO FACT

The most dominant geological process to shape the mountains in recent times is glaciation. During ice ages, glaciers would have advanced through the region, carving out the mountains as they moved. Evidence of this is shown by large V-shaped valleys such as these, as well as moraine deposits, cirques, and traces of ancient frozen terrain, left behind when the large ice masses retreated.

The route continues below Cima dei Zoldani and Cresta delle Masenade (2,740m) all the way to Rifugio Carestiato (1,835m). Look up and you may see climbers on the Via Ferrata trail! After a quick beer, take Route 549 along a gravel vehicle track. Roughly 30 minutes later you’ll see Passo Duran on SP347, and Rifugio San Sebastiano (1,605m).

Accommodation: Rifugio San Sebastiano is very clean and spacious, a little fancier than the other huts. Food is great, and each room has an ensuite. But surprisingly, wifi is not provided.

Day Seven – Rifugio San Sebastiano to Rifugio Pramperet

Distance: 13km

Ascent: 650m

Time: 5 hours

Trail Numbers: 543

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate

Today was the first day I encountered rain – and boy did it rain! From San Sebastiano, the Alta Via 1 follows the main highway for 2 kilometres. Markings on the road direct you to Route 543, a winding dirt trail that ascends steeply through dense forest to Forcella Dagarei (1,642m).

Emerging from the forest, you’ll find spectacular views to the south over La Valle Agordina (even on a cloudy day), and above you tower Tamer Grande (2,547m) and Cima Di Moschesin (2,499m). You have now entered a new region of the Dolomites – more rugged and remote, with slightly different geology.

The trail is relatively level with some small climbs, and alternates between vegetation and rock debris. A grass clearing with two brick buildings indicates the start of a brief ascent toward Castello Di Moschesin. At the top, the views are magnificent. Take some time to explore Forcella Moschesin, an old army barrack used by Italian soldiers in World War 2. The overgrown remnants are eerie and fascinating.

GEO FACT

Recent and current day processes shaping the landscape include mass movements such as landslides, debris flows and rock falls; triggered by factors such as climatic conditions, structural discontinues in rocks, tectonics or human activities. There are many textbook examples of these movements throughout the mountain range, which have become an important part of international scientific literature.

The trail continues only a further 3 kilometres around Cime De Le Balanzole (2,080m) until you reach the lone Rifugio Pramperet (1,855m). Some hikers continued from here to Rifugio Pian de Fontana, leaving them with a shorter final day. However, I was exhausted and decided to save my energy for the walk out tomorrow.

Accommodation: Rifugio Pramperet was perfect in every way. I arrived here quite early and absolutely exhausted. The hosts were so welcoming and invited me to join them for a late lunch. The food was incredible and traditional. Given how remote the refuge is, the facilities are very basic, but this didn’t bother me. But the overall feel of the place is amazing and welcoming. I would love to go back and visit one day.

Day Eight – Rifugio Pramperet to La Pisso

Distance: 16km

Ascent: 960m

Time: 8 hours

Trail Numbers: 514, 518, 503

Difficulty: Moderate

The final day! From Rifugio Pramperet, backtrack briefly to Route 514 and start a steady climb to Portela Del Piazedel (2,097m) along a narrow dirt trail. From here, my favourite part of the Alta Via 1 - the final mountain pass over Forcella de Zita Sub (2,451m). This section is of otherworldly beauty and solitude. Even on a cloudy day you are exposed to some of the most incredible and far-reaching views of the journey – it made me a little emotional!

Before you reach the top, you’re faced with a steep ascent along a narrow ridge – this section is marked on the map as ‘for expert hikers only’ because it is very exposed. Take care, especially if it is windy! Breath-taking panoramic views greet you at the top. Severe and almost vertically tilted rock formations become visible to the south - incredible.

From here you start the steep descent to Rifugio Pian de Fontana (1,632m). And steep is not an exaggeration – 800 metres in about under 4 kilometres! As you walk through the grassy valley look out for Marmots hiding in the rocks.

After a quick coffee at Rifugio Pian de Fontana, the trail takes up and down through dense forest, occasionally crossing streams and rock debris. During this section there are very few markers, which made me think I was going the wrong way, but eventually I emerged from the forest and found a sign directing me to the Rifugio Furio Bianchet – the final refuge along the Alta Via 1 trial.

Another long descent follows along Route 518 - this time about 1400 metres over 12 kilometres. The steep gravelly trail winds down the western flank of Cime De la Scala (1,908m), shadowed by Cima Nerville (2,076m) to the south. The lower you descend, the greener and more lush the vegetation. Eventually you find yourself back in forest and arriving at Rifugio Furio Bianchet.

GEO FACT

The geological history of the Dolomites is all but finished; rather it is a living process that still continues. So, when we walk on these most majestic mountains, we should take a moment to pause, from time to time, to ponder on the fact that we are treading on a living landscape which breathes, moves and changes all the time. From tropical sea dramatic mountain range: this is a landscape that guards within itself the key to better comprehend the planet we are living in.

The final section of the trail follows Route 503 along a gravel vehicle access road from Rifugio Furio Bianchet to La Pisso Bus Stop. The gravel road provides easy, downhill walking - I had a last minute adrenaline rush and ran most of the way! After two hours you find a sign directing you to ‘buses’, and you follow and small steep gravel trail through the bush. Across a high waterfall and down a set of stairs, you find yourself standing on the edge of SR203 - a pretty anticlimactic end to the Alta Via 1.

Planning

Terrain

You will experience many different terrains along the Alta Via 1. The mountainous sections primarily comprise narrow dirt trails that can be covered by rock debris or snow in places. Vehicle tracks are also common, including gravel forest roads, farm tracks and access roads for ski field maintenance. There are a few small sections on paved road or highways.

The Route

The Alta Via 1 is quite well marked throughout its length. Markings vary from three stripes of paint on a rock (the colours of an Austrian flag), to dedicated Alta Via 1 markers (a triangle with a numeral ‘1’ in the middle), or simple signposts directing you to the next refuge.

However, I still suggest you have at least one competent navigator with a map and compass, for situations where the route is not marked at a turning or where snow cover is still an issue. I brought a set of Casa Editrice Tabacco maps from a book store in Cortina d’Ampezzo for about €15 each. The most useful maps from north to south are:

No. 31 Prags Braies
No. 3 Cortina and Ampezzano
No. 15 Pelmo Civetta
No. 25 Zoldo Agordo area

Timing

Hikers typically take ten days to complete the Alta Via 1 from Lago de Braies to Belluno, give or take a day or two. As the last section is not possible without Ferrata, I completed the hike at La Pisso bus stop after eight days.

Season

I completed the hike at the end of June simply because that is what worked with my travel plans. It ended up being a great time with perfect weather and not quite peak season – though the track was quite busy there was plenty of room left in the Rifugios (I only booked these a couple of days in advance).

Rifugios

Spaced out along the Alta Via 1 route are huts or “rifugios”, which provide food and accommodation to those who prefer not to camp. The rifugios are a highlight of the hike - often isolated, with incredible mountain views and warm welcomes.

Each rifugio provides a "half board" pricing option which includes a three course dinner, breakfast and a bed, for between €45 to €55. The other option is to pay for bed and breakfast for €20 to €30, and dinner from a menu at an additional cost. I went with this option because it worked out cheaper and the three course meal was too big! Also note that some more remote rifugios charge between €2 to €5 for showers.

For more details of each rifugio check out this website:

http://www.rifugios.net/alta-via-1.html

Packing

To hike the Alta Via 1 I suggest you take the following:

Hiking pack
Hiking boots
Tops – I carried three Kathmandu hiking tops and one long sleeve thermal for layering
Bottoms – I carried one pair of lightweight hiking pants, one pair of running tights and one pair of shorts
Waterproof jacket
Hiking socks – I had four pairs of socks that I hand washed when possible
Underwear and sports bras
Sun hat
Sunglasses
Neck warmer/head band
Sunscreen
Insect repellent
First aid kit
Toiletries – I carried shampoo/conditioner, moisturizer and toothbrush/paste
Silk liner
Towel
Compass
Whistle
Maps
Camera – I had a GoPro with tripod and underwater attachments
Phone
Portable charger
Wallet
Water - I carried three litres each day
Lunch/snacks – I brought enough food for the eight days from the local shop before I started. However, for a small cost you can have lunches made for you each day at the rifugios.

Note: This list may vary depending on season, weather conditions and personal preference.

Transport

Cortina to Lago de Braies

Make your way to the town of Cortina d’Ampezzo – a gorgeous Alpine town in the heart of the Dolomites. Here there are local supermarkets, chemists and book stores for supplies. From here I caught the Alpine Bus to Dobbiaco - buses from Cortina Bus Station leave every hour and cost about €5 for the 20 minute journey.

During peak season (July to September) buses leave from Dobbiaco Station hourly to Lago de Braies. As I arrived off season (one day before official peak season start…) the buses were not running and I walked/hitchhiked to the start instead. I was picked up by a lovely Italian couple who I hiked with on the first day.

Note: There are also buses direct from Cortina to Lago de Braies, but I chose to spend the night in Dobbiaco so that I was closer to the starting location.

La Pisso Bus Stop to Belluno

When you arrive at La Pisso Bus Stop, alpine buses drive down SR203 hourly from Argordo. However, this is not a designated stop and buses will only pull over if you wave them down. It is a good idea to stop at Rifugio Pian de Fontana and ask for the bus timetable so you know what time to expect the bus to drive by. It takes about 30 minutes to get to Belluno for a cost of €5.