The West Highland Way - A Travelers Guide

With around 80,000 visitors every year, the West Highland Way (WHW) is Scotland’s most popular long distance walking route. It starts in Milngavie, just north of Glasgow, and finishes in the heart of the Highlands in Fort William, and at the base of the United Kingdom’s highest Peak – Ben Nevis. The 150 km (96 mile) track provides breath-taking scenery and up close encounters with wildlife as you wind your way through forests, up hills, around lochs, and across glacial valleys.

The WHW is the first of ten long distance walking routes I hoped to complete during my solo travels in Europe and the United Kingdom. It was the perfect walk to start with as it is easy to moderate in difficulty, and has accommodation (hostels, hotels, campsites and B&B’s) along the way – so I didn’t have to carry camping gear. In fact, luggage transfer is available each day so all I ever had to carry was a day pack. Talk about luxurious!

I recommend the trail to anyone who loves getting off the beaten track. It doesn't require a high level of fitness and is the most incredible and rewarding way to experience the Scottish Highlands. This blog describes my seven day itinerary, and provides some planning tips to make your West Highland Way experience as incredible as mine.

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Walking the West Highland Way

Day One – Milngavie to Drymen

Distance: 21 km (13 miles)

Accent: 100 m (330 ft)

Time: 5 hours

Difficulty: Very Easy

The first section of the WHW is somewhat a prelude to the landscapes of the lowlands. With no large accents it is an easy day and only takes 4-5 hours to complete.

The train arrives from Glasgow Central to Milngavie Station – a three minute walk from the start of the WHW in Milngavie town centre. The route takes you through Mugdock Wood, around the edge of Craigallian Loch, and on to Dumgoyach farm. Look out for a Scottish couple and their trailer – they provide coffee and snacks for a small donation which goes towards helicopter rescue services in the area. They also have a pet baby wolf which was probably the highlight of my day.

From here, the route follows an old railway line through Dumgoyach, a good place to stop for lunch, and to Gartness Township. Be sure to stop at the Glengoyne Whisky Distillery for a tasting – only a short walk from the trail. Gartness to Drymen is an easy walk along a country lane with beautiful pastoral views and friendly locals.

Terrain: Mostly gravel tracks and country lanes, with a section of disused railway line. The route is well sign-posted.

Accommodation: Kip in the Kirk B&B is a lovely B&B in the centre of Drymen with bunks and double rooms available. Eva is incredibly friendly and hospitable, provides scones and tea on arrival and a delicious buffet breakfast the next morning. Though it was a little more expensive than my usual accommodation budget, it is affordable for the average traveler.

Day Two – Drymen to Rowardennan

Distance: 22.5 km (14 miles)

Accent: 430 m (1410 ft)

Time: 6 hours

Difficulty: Easy

From Drymen, the WHW ascends through Garadhban Forest and across moorland to Conic Hill. This provides a breath-taking view of Loch Lomond and surrounding mountains. The top off the hill is not actually along the WHW trail but is worth the five minute detour. This is a popular walk for public so can be very busy, especially over the weekend.

GEO FACT

From Conic Hill you can see the Highland Boundary Fault which marks a geological division between Highland and Lowland Scotland. South of the fault the terrain comprises sedimentary sandstone and coal measures, while north of the fault you see folded schists and slates.

The decent from Conical Hill takes you into the small town of Balmaha, a great place to stop for lunch. From here the route stays close to Loch Lomond on an undulating but very scenic trail all the way to Rowardennan. You will pass the last store for a while at Milarrochy Camping Ground – so make sure you stock up on supplies!

Terrain: Forest tracks and a hillpath over Conic Hill, followed by undulating and occasionally rough trail around Loch Lomond. The route is well signposted.

Accommodation: Basically there are two accommodation options at this point – the Rowardennan Hotel and the Rowardennan Youth Hostel. I stayed in the hostel because it was the cheaper option. It is beautifully situated on the edge of the lake with incredible sunset views. The rooms are simple dorms (as it was off-season I managed to get a room to myself!), and a dinner and breakfast menu is available. The hostel has a great social atmosphere in a stunning location – one of my favourite stays.

Day Three – Rowardennan to Inverarnan

Distance: 22.5 km (14 miles)

Accent: 475 m (1550 ft)

Time: 7 hours

Difficulty: Moderate

Day three sets out along an old forestry road before turning into a narrow and undulating trail along the lake edge. Though this section is not steep, it is one of the most physically demanding sections of the WHW and will take much longer than expected, especially if you are carrying camping gear.

GEO FACT

Notice shiny rocks along the trail? This rock type is known as Schist and the shine you see is from Mica minerals within it. Micas are used in mineral foundation, eye shadow and toothpaste!

Inversaid marks the halfway point for day three – an old pub on the waterfront is a good place to stop for lunch while you check out Inversaid Falls. The route eventually leaves Loch Lomond and starts the accent up Cnap Mor. From here you are provided incredible views of entire loch from the north. Another two miles through countryside (and around mountain goats) and you reach Inverarnan and Balingus Farm.

Terrain: After the forestry road, the trail becomes undulating and narrow along the loch edge, often obstructed by tree roots and boulders. The route is well sign posted; however, there are some tracks from the forestry road which confused many hikers. Be sure to stick to main road as shown on your map; these tracks are simply access routes for hikers staying the huts nearby.

Accommodation: Balingus Farm was my favourite stay during the WHW. More suited to campers, but also provides accommodation for those without gear. The campsite has a bar which serves breakfast and dinner, and a general store. I stayed in a small two person hut which had power and sleeping bags were provided.

Day Four – Inverarnan to Tyndrum

Distance: 21 km (13 miles)

Accent: 490 m (1600 ft)

Time: 5 hours

Difficulty: Easy

The scenery in this section is a little starker than the Loch Lomond trail, but it does provide some excellent mountain views. Like most days, the route starts out along a vehicle track, later becoming a smaller walking trail that winds around the River Fallon, through farmland and small forests, and crosses under the main highway a couple of times, before reaching the old military road.

After two or three hours you reach the turn off to Crainlarich. Some walkers choose to stay here the night and take an extra day to complete the WHW.

From here the route follows forestry road with some steep sections – I chose to run this part as it was not very scenic and made the steep downhill slopes easier on the legs. Out of the forest, you pass through Kirkton Farm and Auchtertyre Campsite before strolling through Tyndrum Woodland and into Tyndrum Township. The final section of the day is relatively flat and easy walking, with many nice places to stop for a picnic.

Terrain: Mostly gravel roads/trails in good condition, with some short steep sections after Crainlarich. You also get a first glimpse of the old military road earlier in the day.

Accommodation: I stayed at By The Way Hostel and Campsite. It is one of the first buildings you see when first arriving in Tyndrum. The hostel is clean and accommodating with a large communal kitchen and living room. There are also many B&B’s in town though the hostel is suitable for those walking on a budget.

Day Five – Tyndrum to Kings House

Distance: 30 km (19 miles)

Accent: 330 m (1080 ft)

Time: 8 hours

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate

This was the toughest day for me – it is a long way and the old military road is tough on your feet after a long period of time. Other walkers that I was staying with chose to train or taxi to Bridge of Orchy, skipping the first 12 km of the route, to shorten the day. Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy is an easy walk along road and railway, with nice views of steep grassy mountains.

From Bridge of Orchy, the route joins a walking trail to the top of a low ridge (Mam Carraigh). From the top you see stunning views of Loch Tulla and distant mountain ranges. A gradual decent takes you to the lonely Inveroran Hotel for lunch.

A quick walk along a country lane takes you to one of the classic stages of the WHW – the crossing of Rannoch Moor. This route follows the line of Telford’s Parliamentary Road across an incredible glacial valley, filled with tussocky vegetation, boulders, lochs and rivers, and surrounded by grand, snow-capped mountains. In fine weather this is a place of otherworldly beauty, but in a storm this section is wild and exposed, so be sure to check your weather forecast and prepare accordingly.

GEO FACT

You will notice rocks exposed in the river bed appear to be tilted. This is the result of geological processes such as plate tectonics, which cause the tilting, folding and even overturning of once horizontal rock layers.

Once you reach Ba Bridge, a stone arch over River Ba, the route climbs to the highest part of the moorland crossing. From here there are stunning views looking back over the entire valley. The decent is gradual and reveals one of Scotland’s most iconic mountains – Buachaille Etive Mor. The route joins a minor road near Black Rock Cottage before crossing the A82 highway and reaching the Kings House Hotel. Look out for wild red deer!

Terrain: Easy walking on road and rail to Bridge of Orchy, followed by a short climb via walking trail to Inveroran Hotel. A country road eventually joins up with the old military road for the second half of the day. Route is well sign-posted.

Accommodation: The Kings House Hotel is a seventeenth century building situated in the middle of Glencoe Valley. It was a little out of my budget but worth it for the location and facilities. The restaurant and bar are great and the atmosphere is fun, with many people visiting the hotel only for dinner and drinks. Breakfast is included and there is also space outside for camping.

Day Six – Kings House to Kinlochleven

Distance: 15 km (9 miles)

Accent: 540 m (1800 ft)

Time: 4 hours

Difficulty: Moderate

The route briefly joins up with the old military road as you head toward Altnafeadh house. From here, the WHW begins a steep accent to the highest point on the entire route, the Devil’s Staircase. Despite is forbidding name the trail is very clear and zigzagged - not as tough as I had anticipated.

The summit at 550 m provides spectacular views of Glencoe Mountains as well as the rough terrain ahead. It is worth spending some time here exploring nearby peaks and lochs – it’s beautiful!

GEO FACT

During the Palaeogene (60 million years ago) this area was subject to major volcanic activity, which included the caldera-style eruption of Glencoe Volcano. A caldera is a large cauldron-like depression that forms when a large volume of magma is erupted over a short time period, causing the crust above the magma chamber to collapse. Though recent processes have reshaped the caldera, evidence of this event lies in the circular alignment of volcanic rocks and faults in the surrounding landscape.

The trail continues north descending through barren glacial valley, and passing Blackwater Reservoir. Eventually the route meets up with a gravel access road to the Scottish Water pipeline. With another 300 m to descend, the road is very steep and a fairly long walk down to Kinlochleven township.

This was an easy day for me and I arrived in town around lunchtime. It would be possible to continue to Fort William this day; however, I enjoyed taking my time along the trail and spending the afternoon in Kinlochleven - home of the largest indoor ice climbing wall in the United Kingdom!

Terrain: Easy path to follow but gravely and rough in some places. Includes a steep accent in Glencoe and a steep descent into Kinlochleven. The route is well sign-posted.

Accommodation: Kinlochleven has plenty of accommodation options. I stayed at Tailrace Inn, which was the cheapest accommodation available without camping. It is an old 70’s style motel with studio rooms, and a bar and kitchen - nothing fancy but reasonable for the price.

Day Seven – Kinlochleven to Fort William

Distance: 24 km (15 miles)

Accent: 475 m (1560 ft)

Time: 6 hours

Difficulty: Easy

The final day begins with a steep walk up through the woods overlooking Kinlochleven. The old military road winds through a glacial valley, enclosed by grand mountains, and filled with tussock, boulders and abandoned brick farmhouses. The route then tracks through a forestry area, before a gradual descent along a gravel road into Glen Nevis, with stunning views of Ben Nevis in the distance.

GEO FACT

Roughly 20,000 years ago, during the Ice Age, Scotland would have looked similar to Greenland. A large ice-sheet covered Rannoch Moor, and from it glaciers flowed westward, gauging out and steepening valleys in the landscape. Following a period of warming (11,500 years ago), the glaciers had disappeared; leaving behind wide valleys filled with rock debris, such as this one we walk through today.

The WHW ends with a 2 km walk along Glen Nevis Road (C1162) into Fort William. The original end of the WHW is signposted as you arrive in town – you can stop here to pick up with completion certificate! The official end of the walk is a further 1 km into Fort William Town Centre, where you will find a sign post and a bronze statue of a tired yet triumphant walker.

Terrain: Initial ascent up a gravel road, followed by a gradual descent along the old military road. The trail is undulating and often uneven through the forest section before the decent on gravel road to Glen Nevis, and pavement to finish. The route is well sign-posted.

Accommodation: I booked one night at Fort William Backpackers and ended up staying for three. It is an old home up on the hill with friendly staff and great facilities. With a very relaxed atmosphere it was the perfect place to finish the WHW.

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Planning

The Trail

The track is in good condition and easy to follow. I brought a WHW map, and there are also signs and markers along the entire route – so it would be very difficult to get lost. All you need to do is follow the thistles!

Direction

The track can be completed in both directions though south-north is the most popular. This way you avoid head winds and staring into the sun, and there are more opportunities to make friends along the way (which is great if you’re walking alone like me!).

Timing

The WHW can be completed anywhere between five to nine days. I chose to do it in seven days, which I found quite easy because I am a fast walker, but it meant I was never pushed for time and could stop regularly to take pictures, collect rocks and play with wildlife.

Season

I completed the walk in May simply because that is what worked with my travel plans. It turned out to be the most popular time to walk because the weather is warming up but midges are not yet out in full force. I actually timed it so perfectly that I had a whole week of sunshine and no rain (which is unheard of in Scotland!). The only thing to consider is that accommodation is more difficult to come by at this time – so it is important to book well in advance!

Packing

While walking the WHW you will need:

• Day pack

• Hiking boots or walking shoes – I walked the entire route in good quality running shoes, instead of hiking boots, mostly for comfort reasons and also because I liked to run some sections of the track.

• Tops – I had three Kathmandu hiking tops that I rotated over the week, and one long sleeve thermal for layering.

• Bottoms – I had one pair of lightweight hiking pants, one pair of running tights, and thermal bottoms for cooler mornings.

• Waterproof jacket

• Hiking socks – I had three pairs of merino socks that I hand-washed when necessary

• Sun hat

• Sunglasses

• Beanie

• Neck warmer/scarf

• Gloves

• Sunscreen

• Insect repellent

• First aid kit - including Compeed Band-Aids for blisters!

• Toiletries – I carried shampoo/conditioner, face wipes, moisturiser, and toothbrush/paste

• Compass

• Whistle

• Camera – I had a GoPro with a tripod attachment

• Phone

• Portable charger

• Wallet

• Water - I carried 2L each day, and there are often places along the way where you can fill up bottles.

• Lunch/Snacks - some days there are places to buy lunch but I found it much cheaper to buy food at general stores along the way. I always had a supply of rice crackers, muesli bars and fruit to keep me going!

Note: this list will vary depending on the season and weather conditions. If it has been raining or snowing, parts of the track can become boggy and slippery so hiking boots would be necessary (particularly for the trail along the edge of Loch Lomond). More warm clothes may also be recommended.

Transport

Getting to Milngavie from Glasgow is quite straightforward. It takes roughly 25 minutes by train from Glasgow Central Station to Milngavie Station, and tickets only cost about £8. It is a three-minute walk from Milngavie Station to the start of the West Highland Way.

Once you finish the walk you can catch a bus from Fort William back to Glasgow. The buses leave from Fort William Station every hour and cost about £23.

Baggage Transfer

Baggage transfer can be organised if you prefer not to carry all your gear (or if you are a traveller like me and have a large pack!). There are many companies to choose from - I used AMS Baggage Transfer, who collected by pack each morning and dropped it at my accommodation each night. It cost around £45 for the seven days.

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Ben Nevis

Distance: 17 km (10.5 miles)

Accent: 1350 m (4430 ft)

Time: 6 hours

Difficulty: Hard

If you have time in Fort William I recommend hiking up Ben Nevis – the highest peak in the United Kingdom.

The hike starts in the Glen Nevis Visitor Centre carpark, approximately 3 km along Glen Nevis Road from Fort William. There are buses that take you to the carpark from town centre; otherwise it is an easy 30 minute walk along Glen Nevis Road. It takes 3-4 hours to reach the summit and 2-3 hours to return, so the hike can easily be completed in a day.

The trail is straightforward; however, it is very steep and much more strenuous than any part of the WHW. The upper section is rough and often snow covered, and losing the line of the trail can lead to dangerous terrain. Navigational skills and winter equipment may be required so be sure to check all precautions before you start the hike. Summer months are more ideal – though I still encountered snow halfway up the mountain in May.

The route starts by crossing a bridge over the Nevis River and following the river bank to Ben Nevis Inn. From here, the steep ascent begins up zigzagged, rocky slopes to Loch Meall an t-Suidhe. The trail continues to zig-zag steeply, crossing over Red Burn stream – the unofficial halfway mark.

Closer to the top the gradient eases and the trail passes Tower and Gardyloo gullies before reaching the summit – marked by the remains of a meteorological observatory. As expected, the summit provides breath-taking and extensive views over much of the highlands, allowing you to look back over the West Highland Way route, before beginning the descent back down the same trail.

GEO FACT

Ben Nevis comprises two very different rock types. The summit area and northern cliffs consist of fine-grained andesitic rocks that were erupted from a volcano. In contrast, the rocks of the lower slopes and surrounding hills are coarse-grained granite formed in a magma chamber at depth.